Goa
Photos: Sailko (CC BY 3.0) · Gayatri Priyadarshini (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Ankitsingh123 (CC BY-SA 4.0)
India's smallest state by area: Konkan coast with Portuguese-era churches and forts, beach towns from Arambol to Palolem, and a Western Ghats hinterland with Dudhsagar Falls.
Pick a base by mood: North Goa for nightlife, markets and crowds; South Goa for calmer bays; Panaji and Old Goa for heritage. The season runs November to March, best mid-November to mid-February; June to mid-October is monsoon, when shacks are taken down and swimming is unsafe.
Highlights: UNESCO churches of Old Goa, including the Basilica of Bom Jesus · Fontainhas Latin quarter in Panaji · Calangute-Baga beach belt · Anjuna Wednesday flea market and Arpora Saturday Night Market · Arambol and Sweet Water Lake · Palolem and Agonda in the far south · Fort Aguada and Chapora Fort · Dudhsagar Falls in Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary · Carnival in February and Shigmo in March
When to go
Green best · blue good · red avoid · this month outlinedDestinations
Towns, valleys and cities worth the trip, with how they rate this month.
Panaji
Goa's small riverside capital on the Mandovi: the Fontainhas Latin quarter, the Immaculate Conception church and Goan food.
Calangute
North Goa's busiest beach town, the "Queen of Beaches", running into Baga and Candolim.
Anjuna
Former hippie-trail village in North Goa: rocky beach, the Wednesday flea market and bars and clubs nearby.
Arambol
Bohemian far-north Goa beach with Sweet Water Lake, paragliding and a long sandy-rocky shore.
Old Goa
Former capital of Portuguese India, now a UNESCO site of 16th-17th century churches and convents, 10 km east of Panaji.
Colva
Long, easy-going South Goa beach 8 km from Margao, with a historic church and October feast.
Palolem
Sheltered crescent bay in Canacona, South Goa: calm water, beach huts, kayaking and dolphin trips.
Dudhsagar Falls
Tall four-tiered waterfall on the Goa-Karnataka railway in Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary, 60 km from Panaji.
Margao
second largest city in Goa
Candolim
town in North Goa District, Goa, India
Baga
Sinquerim
Vagator
Chapora
Assagao
Miramar
Chorao Island
Ponda
Mayem
Bogmalo
Varca
Cabo de Rama
Netravali
Mollem
Top sights
Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church
Panaji's landmark white church with a zig-zag stairway above the old town.
Goa State Museum
Free state museum in the Old Secretariat (Adil Shah Palace) in Panaji.
Fort Aguada
Portuguese fort and lighthouse on the Sinquerim headland at the mouth of the Mandovi, north of Candolim.
Palolem Beach
Sheltered crescent bay in Canacona, one of Goa's most beautiful beaches.
Cabo de Rama
Clifftop fort on a headland in Canacona, south of Betul, with sea views.
Naval Aviation Museum
Indian Navy aviation museum near Dabolim with retired naval aircraft and a cockpit simulator.
Se Cathedral
The large cathedral of Old Goa, one of the monuments of the UNESCO Churches and Convents of Goa.
Basilica of Bom Jesus
Baroque basilica in Old Goa, consecrated in 1605, that holds the remains of St Francis Xavier; part of the UNESCO Churches and Convents of Goa.
Nature and outdoors
Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary.
Mangrove bird sanctuary on Chorao island in the Mandovi, reached by ferry from Ribandar.
Francisco Luis Gomes Garden
Colva Beach
Long sandy South Goa beach 8 km from Margao.
Calangute Beach
Busy North Goa beach running from Candolim to Baga, called the "Queen of Beaches".
Baga Beach
Crowded family and party beach just north of Calangute with Tito's Lane nightlife.
Anjuna Beach
Rocky North Goa beach known for bars, the Wednesday flea market and trance-era party history.
Arambol Beach
Bohemian far-north beach with a freshwater lake, paragliding and a laid-back crowd.
Morjim Beach
Wide, shallow North Goa beach popular for kitesurfing.
Things to do
Where to eat
Viva Panjim
Small family-run Goan restaurant in the Fontainhas quarter.
Mum's Kitchen
Home-style Goan restaurant in Panaji built on family recipes.
Ritz Classic
Popular Panaji lunch place for fish curry rice thali.
Kokni Kanteen
Budget Konkani-Goan eatery in Panaji.
Cafe Tato
Vegetarian cafe near the municipal market, open since 1913, famous for bhaji-pao.
Cafe Bhonsle
Old Panaji breakfast cafe for bun, bhaji and Goan samosa.
The Goan Room
Goan restaurant at Dona Paula known for thalis and kingfish.
Fat Fish
Goan seafood restaurant in Baga.
Shopping
Panjim Market
Panaji Market
Anjuna Flea Market
Wednesday flea market on Anjuna beach for clothes, jewellery, spices and souvenirs.
Saturday Night Market Arpora
Saturday night bazaar at Arpora with stalls, food and live music, November to March.
Mapusa Friday Bazaar
Weekly Friday market in Mapusa for produce, chorizo, vinegar, cashews and feni.
Mackie's Saturday Night Bazaar
Weekend night market on the Baga river bank, November to March.
Tibetan Market
Arpora Night Market
Food to try
- Fish curry rice: The Goan staple, at almost every beach shack and local restaurant
- Prawn balchao: Spicy, tangy pickled prawn dish of Portuguese influence
- Vindaloo: Hot, vinegar-sharp curry, classically pork
- Xacuti: Curry with roasted coconut and spices, often chicken
- Cafreal: Green-masala chicken or fish fry
- Sorpotel: Rich pork dish
- Bebinca: Layered pudding, a Christmas sweet
- Feni: Cashew or coconut spirit (up to 42%); cashew feni has GI protection
- Urrak: Smoky summer drink served in local bars
Festivals
- Goa Carnival: Months: 2 · 3; Description: Four days of processions, floats and dancing before Lent
- Shigmo: Months: 3; Description: Hindu spring festival including Holi, with folk dances and float parades over a fortnight
- Ganesh Chaturthi (Chavoth): Months: 8 · 9; Description: Major Hindu festival; book travel early
- Fama de Menino Jesus, Colva: Months: 10; Description: Feast at Colva church on the second Monday of October
- Feast of St Francis Xavier: Months: 11 · 12; Description: Novena from 24 November and feast on 3 December at Old Goa
- Christmas and New Year: Months: 12; Description: Busiest week of the year; very high prices
- Grape Escape: Months: 2; Description: Wine festival around the start of the year, often mid-February